Pounds to Spend + Pounds to Gain: London

"Life is a marathon, not a sprint."

Well, our marathon of summer European travels began with a sprint.

Hannah and I were advised to arrive at the train station "a few minutes" before the departure, considering the station doesn't assign trains until minutes beforehand.

Well...that was the wrong advice. We showed up at 7:30 for the 7:43 train, unaware of the fact that we had to fill out a customs form, go through border security, screen our bags, and run to the train down three sets of escalators. To be honest, I don't really remember anything after 7:30 except for jumping onto the 18th car of the train as the doors were closing. Hannah and I had seats in the third car. We stumbled down aisle by aisle, car by car, panting and laughing at the miracle we had just witnessed. Our passports served as fans for the first twenty minutes of the Chunnel once we found our seats.

Newest lesson learned: arrive at the train station at least thirty minutes beforehand.

Our adorable Dawson Place Bed & Breakfast

...But don't worry, we made it to London! And our reunion with Mel and Molly at the adorable Dawson Place Bed & Breakfast in Notting Hill was exciting as ever!

Our first stop was an adorable, French style bistro (figures) around the corner from our bed and breakfast, called Côte Brasserie. The staff was friendly, the eclectic menu wasn't too pricey, and the most adorable old Scottish man sat to the right of us and managed to tell his entire life story in one 10-minute conversation. He and Mel are dating now.

After a round of beer, we ordered ratatouille, asparagus and arugula risotto, and Mel had a delicious piece of seabass. Every dish was portioned well. The ratatouille, which I'm used to eating as a vegetable stack with tomatoes, was served like a bruschetta. The warm vegetables melted pieces of goat cheese and sat on top of arugula and one toasted slice of bread. It was heavenly. The risotto was rich, but the green summer vegetables and heaping bunch of arugula on top made it feel almost like a salad!

We had an enjoyable first meal in the city; in fact, we were wishing that we could become regulars at the place like the old Scottish man. Too bad we were only staying for 48 hours!

St. James Park

Portobello Market

Just playing the part at Buckingham Palace

A few of many other highlights include...

- A tour of the Tower of London and Crown Jewels

- A walk through St. James Park

- Bond Street stores, including the flagship Alexander McQueen

- Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Duh.

- Fortnum & Mason. The specialty food store and afternoon tea paradise deserves its own post, so here it is.

- Portobello Market in Notting Hill and a fabulous breakfast at Gail's. Look out for that post as well.

- Fish and Chips at a local pub

- Lunch at The Orangery in Kensington Palace

- Dinner at J Sheekey with my beautiful friend Alexandra from London, who spent her gap year at my high school in Memphis...and whom I have not seen in three years!

- A lobster and summer vegetable salad at J Sheekey...to die for, people.

- A run-in with the Royals at Kensington Palace...we're still trying to figure out who was in each limo!

- The Changing of the Guards at Buckingham Palace

Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason

While the final few minutes in London provided only a small glimpse of my enjoyment in the city, I took my last 1.83 pounds to a bakery in the St. Pancras station (since we decided to arrive an hour in advance this time!). I didn't want to leave England with any cash; pounds in my wallet would unfortunately be useless. The bakery did not have any items under 2 pounds, but the sweet man behind the counter gave me his favorite pastry - an almond croissant - for my 1.83. It was so kind and left a sweet taste in my mouth of a simply wonderful weekend.

(Oh, and if you've noticed the title of the post: we spent every pound and gained a few too, considering we ate our way through the entirety of weekend. No regrets!)

Be on the lookout for some mouth-watering caramelized critiques. Cheerio, for now!

Cafe de Flor and St. Germain

I've fallen in love with St. Germain. The overall city has already surpassed my expectations, but there's something about that 6th district neighborhood that makes me want to buy a house, learn French and people-watch over a café créme every afternoon for the rest of my days. And maybe it's because I had the loveliest dinner at my friend Bunny and Jeff's St. Germain apartment on Monday...but still, it's a pretty magical feeling.

A "Parisian" Memphis Homecoming

Let's begin with Monday's dinner. I could not have been more anxious to feel the beloved Memphis hospitality on the other side of the world! Bunny and Jeff arranged a warm gathering at their roof garden apartment. They invited me and Hannah, along with some other Memphis visitors and local friends. 

Their colorful buffet ranged from Gerard Mulot savory and sweet pastries, to Le Bon Marche cheeses and vegetables, to Bunny's own seared tuna with ginger and herbs. My favorites were the steamed white asparagus, a rare vegetable in the United States, and a 24-month-old aged compte cheese with cherry paste. She whipped it all up within in an hour. I was impressed and inspired. We finished plate after plate while sitting around the gorgeous, open living room and talking about Paris and the connections between each of us.

The highlight was our champagne toast and Gerard Mulot game, which involved dividing each of the six pastries into fourths and going around the circle to bid on desserts. I scrounged the raspberry and amaryllis macaron, salted caramel shortbread, and torte tutti fruiti! They were gone within minutes.

Café de Flore

Hannah and I had to bring our friends back to St. Germain. After a picnic lunch in the Luxembourg Gardens (where we coincidentally ran into Bunny and Jeff again!), the six of us found Café de Flore, a prestigious cafe known for its hot chocolate, famous clientele and elaborate Art Deco decor from before World War II. We didn't see any famous clientele, but we DID enjoy the richest hot chocolate I could imagine!

The consistency was legitimately melted chocolate. Each person received a delicate pitcher that held enough for three cups worth! And did we leave a drop? No way Jose. I didn't think a drink could physically fill me up, but this one did.

The Smiths Bakery

Of course, though, we weren't finished. We walked along the St. Germain art district, passed Gerard Mulot, which was, to our disappointment, closed on Wednesdays. We walked through the Marche St. Germain, a market that physically took up an entire block. We settled on a quaint bakery called The Smiths Bakery. Hannah and I split a slice of chocolate chip banana bread and ate on the cobblestone sidewalk right outside the entrance. The experience was delightful!

Lovers Lock Bridge

After wandering even longer, we dead ended at the Lover's Lock Bridge on Pont de l'Archeveche of the Seine River, which Hannah and I had been wanting to visit for months. I'll admit that this was one of the cheesiest things I have ever EVER done, but I'll never EVER forget it. And the idea of adding a lock with my and Alex's names felt pretty freakin' cute.

St. Germain dés Prés, I will be seeing you again!

La Bisquine (Honfleur)

Sunday morning, we stepped off of the coach bus into a dreamland. And it's called Honfleur, France. Our program had already spent Saturday in Caen to experience the D-Day museum, Utah and Omaha beaches, memorials, and cemeteries on the event's 69th anniversary. The powerful yet emotionally demanding day called for a relaxing Sunday in Honfleur and Deauville.

Omaha Beach

Hotel Normandy in Deauville

The picturesque scene of our lunch patio mirrored Impressionist paintings of the Honfleur harbor I had witnessed minutes beforehand in the Edmond Boudin museum.

Since Honfleur is a port town, I caught on that seafood was a must. I wish I could've ordered the 65 euro seafood tower that I saw on our walk throughout the restaurants! But I must be frugal, living in Europe as a student and all.

Our group of girls was pleased with our final choice: La Bisquine.

I ordered the mussels in white wine. The meat itself was smaller per shell, but the portion was huge and the white wine taste really came through. Sautéed onions also soaked up the wine, and the parsley added extra freshness to the dish.

Allison ordered a Gallete, which I learned is a savory crepe. She chose the traditional gallete with ham, cheese and egg. The ingredients were similar to a Croque Madame, which is on my list of dishes to try.

Carly ordered grilled Salmon with garlic mayonnaise and "chips." Maybe it was because it had been so long, but those fries were crispy as ever!

The rest of the girls craved classic American brunch, so they ordered fine herbs and mushroom omelets with cheese. I had a taste and thought they were delicious. European cheese really makes that much of a difference.

I will say that the food is enjoyable, but the scene makes this place a must. I'll never forget it. Or the fruit "candy" shop I found a few doors down :)

Chez Flottes (Paris)

Let me be clear: I love my bread and I love my Brie.

But last Friday, I was craving a healthier, heartier and more "Parisian" meal.

After five hours of exploring the heart of Paris - Place de la Concorde, the Opera House, upscale shopping districts, antique stores, la Madeleine, and other architectural highlights - we needed a dinner to match the fine city and fine atmosphere. Madison, Hannah and I browsed almost every cafe menu we passed, but one caught our eye: Chez Flottes.

Housed in a gorgeous, cobblestone side street in the first district, Chez Flottes was a quaint, classy space with a serene café patio. Outstanding service is hard to come by in the city, since tip and the English language are both discouraged around here. However, our waiters greeted us in English and treated us above and beyond the average cafe would. I was instantly at ease and ready to order a Parisian feast.

We began with a bottle of chilled white wine, which quenched our thirst and cooled us off after walking in 75 degree weather in jeans for hours (did I mention no one wears shorts here?).

Madison and I ordered escargot since 1) We're in Paris 2) It's a delicacy here 3) I was feeling bold. I was thrilled and frankly relieved when our waiter brought the escargot deshelled and broiling in garlic butter. It's just like home! But better! We soaked up every bit of remaining garlic butter with the baguette.

Next was soup. Madison ordered classic French onion soup with more cheese than soup. Hannah and I loved the tomato gazpacho, which matched perfectly with the summery weather on our patio.

When we didn't think our meal could get better, it did. Oh, it did. Madison's foie gras (which I had never tried before) was mild and smooth. It paired well with the vibrant mango chutney and sprinkle of sea salt on each bite.

Hannah and I both ordered the grilled salmon on a bed of fresh wilted spinach. The light, lemony butter sauce was served on the side in a small copper saucepan - how adorable! I enjoyed being able to control the amount of sauce so I could get the most out of each ingredient.

The meal was pricey, yes; but it was 100% worth it. I ate every bite out of pure enjoyment...and because it's considered rude if you don't clean your plate. I'd go back in a second!

Soufflé, s'il vous plaît?

My first week has ended, and my experience gets better and better every minute. Our globalization and consumer behavior marketing courses have been demanding yet engaging. The afternoon and evening discoveries of sites, cafés and shops will be etched in my mind forever. I just don't think it's going to hit me that I'm HERE in Europe until I'm sitting on the plane next month.

I have checked many more sights off my list, including some new food experiences to share with you, my wonderful foodie audience.

Le Bon Marche

Imagine Bergdorf's. Now imagine the Whole Foods headquarters in Austin. Now imagine them combined...and on steroids!

My friends and I walked in the doors in utter amazement. I've never seen so much luxury fashion in one place. The building itself blew my mind, but the shoes, bags, clothes and jewelry were literally unlike any other. I knew I was in the fashion capital of the world as soon as I entered.

The department store is attached to Le Grande Epicerie, or "The Great Market," where we picked up dinner and specialty foods to stock the apartment. I'm pretty positive we spent an hour roaming the aisles and departments, which housed the most unbelievable assortment of meats, fish, produce, cheeses, wines, prepared foods and dessert. I wish I could've bought it all to bring home to Memphis and cook with...too bad the food would not last and my wallet would be empty.

I settled on a few items that I knew I couldn't find at our local grocery or anywhere else in Paris. First, fresh wheat raisin bread, which I will pair with a strawberry jam from Honfleur and Brie. Next, Chardonnay. The cheapest item in my basket, as always. Next, fresh blackberries - plump and bright violet - and soft almond cookies from the bakery. For dinner, I found Vietnamese rice paper "ravioli" in the prepared foods section with shrimp, chicken, mushrooms, basil and brown rice. The sweet soy sauce on the side didn't overpower the filling, and I enjoyed getting in my Asian fix!

The sweet ending to our Le Bon Marche experience was that we ate in the park next door. The spontaneous piqué nique was relaxing and let us take in the extraordinary department store and market.

Le Soufflé

After a fancy dinner at Chez Flottes in the first district (or arrondissement), we immediately began another venture for dessert.

Coincidentally, we didn't have to look far. We turned ONE corner and I read the sign "Le Soufflé." Then it clicked! My dear friend Bunny had recommended the spot for the "best soufflés in the city."

We walked in and were humorously placed in the back room since we had not made a reservation beforehand. But our tight booth did not take away from the experience - we were there for soufflé, si vout plais!

We ordered the classic chocolate and caramel soufflés. While tempted to order another bottle of wine, we stuck with water. The soufflés arrived quickly, popping over the serving dish and literally calling our names. The waiter cut into the chocolate soufflé and poured steaming hot chocolate sauce in the center. Hannah was closing my jaw at this point.

The soufflés were divine but surprisingly different from American soufflés. They were more mild, less rich, and evenly fluffy and foamy throughout. In America, the center is usually raw, almost like an uncooked brownie. I enjoyed mine at Le Soufflé because of their lighter, airy texture that was more satisfying than overwhelming.

Hannah also asked for a side of vanilla ice cream. Great call. It melts beautifully with the warm soufflé.

Stumbling upon the best soufflé in town was just what the doctor ordered - it was the perfect ending to another perfect week in Paris. Below are a few more shots!

goat cheese, honey, arugula from au metro

Pique-niques and Pastries

Since I am a food blogger, I've decided to center my travel tales around the meals and foodie experiences around Paris. I have only been here for four days, and this has been my eating pattern since arriving:

Café créme (Coffee with cream...the serving is half the size of a Starbucks tall. I have to adjust.)

Croissant

Brie

Baguette

Café créme

Macarons

Repeat.

Was this unexpected? Psh, no way. However, our 22 hours of classes so far on Economics, International Marketing, and Globalization have distracted me from eating every pastry in sight. I am not going to bore you about our daily schedule of metro stops and classes (although our campus, ESCP Europe, is both architecturally and intellectually impressive!). 

On a side note, I will tell you that we had a breathtaking bus tour last night around Paris. I felt like we were constantly in circles because of the roundabouts, but I was in awe of the city's landscape and sites.  I'm still on a high from the beauty of this place. I hope to see as many gems as possible! Luckily, I can already cross the Eiffel Tower off my list (as you can see above).

But overall, I will highlight a few stories from a foodie and attempted-Parisian perspective I'm trying to achieve!

A picnic (also known as "pique-nique") was a must, Hannah and I agreed. The bridge next to our dorm leads to a running trail, so Hannah and I picked up groceries (the wine was the cheapest item, might I add) and headed toward the park. We picked a bench, set out our baguette, brie and olives, and people-watched in complete bliss. It was so nice to unwind after an overwhelming first day of class and final hints of jet lag!

After class yesterday, a few of us jumped on the metro to Champs Elysees to try the one-and-only Laduree. This place epitomizes elegance. I wish we could have stayed for tea, but the line for seating was over an hour long. I picked out vanilla, salted caramel and café macarons. Seriously: when everyone claims these are the best, they are telling you the truth. These were to die for. Next time, I'm ordering a pastry too.

Here's to many, many more macarons and memories!