Why The Memphis Food Scene Matters

Well, we're halfway through another month (how?), and the seasons are clearly a-changin'. I haven't experienced a true autumn in years and am already embracing the fall transition in and out of the kitchen. Yesterday afternoon, I whipped up a few heirloom tomato recipes and a fruity cobbler. . .Look out for those recipes soon. Last week, I was honored to attend the National Association of Food Journalists' annual conference in Memphis. As one of fewer than ten Memphian attendees, I took full advantage of the conference location and strolled from my apartment to the Peabody Hotel for three packed days of thought-provoking panels, empowering conversations, and first-class meals. Seriously, the food lineup was more impressive with each bite or taste of Memphis, if you will.

While I could write a novel about my new perspectives on the changing landscape of food journalism, new media, iPhone photography, restaurant transformations, etc., I will share five new lessons about my city's food scene. Despite previous dispositions or judgments on your behalf or mine, this city has a lot of history. And a lot to offer.

1. "All good Southerners do come home." -Chef Karen Carrier, Beauty Shop, Bar DKDC

It's true. There's a reason why Memphis-raised Karen Carrier left her Chelsea, New York restaurant (where Phillip Seymour Hoffman ate his last meal) and committed herself to never-seen-before Memphis dining and catering at the Beauty Shop and beyond. A gravity seems to pull us back to the place where we tasted our first homecooked meal, rich with history and passion and quality and purpose. Heck, it worked for me.

2. "Cooking is our cultural currency." -Kim Severson, New York Times

Cookbooks are still selling. Recipes are still circulating. People want touchstones to that tribal fire of cooking and eating in a community. Memphis is providing that cultural currency with inter-generational restaurants that value tradition above all else. Orange Mound Grill's 60-year-old sweet potato pie recipe will continue, according to founder Ms. Daisy Miller's granddaughter. The Folk and Boggs families are committed to refocusing Memphis' original steakhouse, Folk's Folly. Kat Gordon shares her mom Jan's toffee bar recipe with the entire city in Muddy's bake shops. The city is committed to continuing that "cultural currency" element that clearly holds us all together.

3. Barbecue may be our official food, but it's not our only specialty.

You can find an unbelievable slab of ribs at Charlie Vergos Rendezvous or a classic barbecue pizza at Coletta's; but the truth is, Memphis chefs are not settling with old-fashioned headliner dishes. They're making new headlines. They're pushing the envelope with innovation and recirculation of the city's most prized delicacies, such as two I just mentioned. Wednesday night's Taste of Memphis event at Stax illustrated the resurgence of culinary creativity and the rare unity found in a city's restauranteur scene. I walked past Coletta's barbecue pizza paired with Andy Ticer's modernized barbecue pizza popper (a take on our childhood frozen midnight snack). I watched Wally Joe take a gorgeous spin on Jonathan Magallanes' traditional-style quail tamale. Craft beers and Relevant Roasters are making a new name for Memphis' beverage offerings. Such creativity is placing Memphis on a much higher level than ever before. I only hope the public recognizes its quality as much as the James Beard house, who hosted a slew of my beloved Memphis chefs for a "Made in Memphis" dinner last Spring.

4. In Memphis, "Food is medicine." -Dr. Scott Morris, Church Health Center.

This city of soul views the family table as more than a literal dose of nourishment -- food is a tool of spiritual fulfillment, too. Chef Miles McMath of St. Jude has transformed a "cafeteria" approach into a farm-to-table creative warehouse for thousands of people every single day. The Church Health Center is teaching the alphabet to low income children through healthy foods. Baptist churches are changing the statistic and elevating the ritual of the meal through healthier options at social and religious events. People are clearly committed to making food a reference point -- and a game-changer.

I'm proud to be a part of this place.

A Caramelized Conversation with Margot McNeeley

To change the way chefs think about their food and container waste is one thing. But to change the way the city of Memphis thinks about green eating and environmental sustainability is a far greater challenge that proves to continuously succeed every single day, thanks to Margot McNeeley. Since the 2008 inception of Project Green Fork, a well-known nonprofit in town, millions (and I'm not exaggerating) of gallons of plastic, glass and aluminum have been recycled by certified restaurants. I sat down with Margot at Otherland's Coffee Bar in the heart of Midtown (a PGF-certified spot), where we instantly clicked over our passion for good food and good attitudes in our city. Join us in our Caramelized Conversation and read about the exciting upcoming anniversary event in October. . .

Why did you start Project Green Fork?

My husband and I like to eat out. I began to notice the lack of recycling at some of our favorite restaurants, and I could not stop asking myself, "why?!" Then, there's that turning point where you begin to get sick of hearing yourself complain, so you must either shut up or do something about it. You know what I'm talking about? Well, I decided to do something about it.

How many restaurants participate?

Since starting Project Green Fork, we have totaled 72 certified restaurants (although some are no longer open). Tsunami in Midtown was our first; and when the Memphis Flyer heard the news and wrote a story, we received more and more interest. I'm not one to knock down doors asking for participation. I work with restaurants who see and are ready to experience the benefits of signing on with Project Green Fork and completing the six steps of certification.

What do you love most about Memphis?

When I moved to Memphis 23 years ago, people didn't go downtown. But clearly, people aren't willing to settle. Things happen constantly, and the community is not sitting back. These people, both tough and creative, want to help the city be great. The Brewery is a great example. There is so much potential in this place, and we are consistently finding it.

image via memphis daily news

What are your thoughts on being an entrepreneur?

While it's hard to get it all done alone, seeing the results make the hard work and running around town worthwhile. People now tell me they decide where to eat based on the Project Green Fork restaurant list. For that reason alone, the payback is there!

Your most unforgettable restaurant experience?

On the coast of Italy. My husband and I encountered a shack on the beach where you order whatever is there that day. The man placed the ingredients in a basket and trolleyed it up to the kitchen. Ten minutes later, a meal came back down the trolley with the most delicate handmade pasta and seafood so fresh, the cook must have put his hand in the ocean and pulled out the newest catch just for us. Unbelievable.

Can you name a favorite Memphis restaurant?

Of course not. But since I am vegan, I have found Memphis restaurants to be very receptive if I call ahead of time and request a vegan dish the following night. I've never been told no. So, for all of you who complain Memphis does not cater to vegans -- you're just not asking!

So what's this October 4 event?

Our fifth annual fundraiser, "Loving Local," is coming up this October 4 from 6-9 p.m. The Malco Summer 4 Drive-in Theater is hosting the event with games, mini golf, an auction, movie showings, a set from Impala band, and movie-theater snacks taken up a notch. SOB popcorn, Fuel Cafe vegan nachos, Roaring Tiger vodka slushies with Cosmic Coconut, Relevant Roasters coffee. . .The list goes on. We're providing the best of entertainment in hopes that people will put their phones down, pick up food, a drink, or a golf club, and simply interact!

How do I buy my ticket?

Purchase your tickets online; and in the meantime, follow me on Instagram to see a daily auction item sneak peek!

featured image via this is memphis

Featured on Home and Hill

"From the frying pan of Austin into the fire of Tennessee." Home & Hill Magazine is one of the most beautiful curated publications of Tennessee's arts, culture, and tradition. I'm anxiously awaiting the arrival of Issue no. 4! I got hooked to the site this summer and was honored to be interviewed by the editor on my role as a "food connoisseur." I share about my background, going "incognito," and even my favorite place to dine in Memphis (although that's the toughest question. . .ever).

Read the full interview here.

photo by wynn meyers

Mercadito (Chicago)

I'm still trying to figure out why Austin, Texas, the capital of "Tex-Mex + Girls' Nights Out" meals has never (to my knowledge) offered the brilliant large-party feature that proves to be Mercadito's specialty for bachelorette parties, coupled groups, or hungry girls like ourselves. The Tex-Mex on our tastebuds had the seven of us craving anything and everything about Austin (as we do daily), but this Chicago restaurant gave us the perfect taste of the place where we found the finest of friendship.

For $30/person (of parties of seven+), our party chose three types of guacamole, 2 types of salsa, 4 types of tacos, 2 sides, and a dessert tasting. The spread (and service) was glorious. Here's what we chose and highly enjoyed:

Tradicional, mango, and torreado (chile, garlic, oregano) guacamoles. Tomatillo and verde salsas. Shrimp tacos with mojo and avocado. Skirt steak tacos with jicama slaw and crispy shallots. Chicken al carbon tacos with roasted corn, queso fresco, and crispy avocado. Blackened swordfish tacos with cabbage-jalapeño slaw. Mexican-style corn on the cob (the winner). Home-style rice with black beans.

An impossible feat, the meal arrived plate by plate, with a full serving of every dish to feed our overwhelmed appetites. Besides a few super-spicy components, every dish was executed with originality and high quality. The quantity of food and attention to ingredients were well worth my "per person" check. In fact, I urge you to find six or more friends, make a reservation, and order the exact list above. Plus a cucumber pepino el pyu cocktail (below), which was so fabulous I could've had my own pitcher.

Sunda (Chicago)

When it comes to dining in Chicago, it is essentially impossible to veer off the path of unbelievable options: deep dish pizza drive-bys, brunch spots on every corner, and the dirtiest dirty martinis around. I'm thankful I did not move to the city specifically for the sake of my waist size. But I am thankful I visited, for Brenna and Paige's hospitality and planning surpassed all expectations for my first trip to Chicago since age ten (when I admittedly traveled to Chicago with my mother and grandmother solely to visit the American Girl Museum).

Sunda New Asian hosted our final dinner in the city after a toast at Trump Tower "to many more reunions!" Our waiter swooned us into ordering every sushi roll or starter he recommended. We were told that all plates are meant to be shared and would arrive as they were prepared in the kitchen. The system was perfect for a group dinner and kept our chatter flowing for almost three hours.

For starters, we knocked it out of the park with 3 dishes: crispy brussels sprouts (think ultimate asian chopped salad), steamed shiitake edamame dumplings, and tiger shrimp tempura  You will not find this shrimp tempura anywhere else; Sunda's tempura batter is crispy and light rather than panko-crusted and flaky. The bowl of shrimp is then tossed in a stickily superb honey aioli, whole candied walnuts, and subtle herb garnishes, an unthinkable, out-of-this world combination. Six of us shared the three with some bites remaining, so be aware that not all of Sunda's specialties imply small plates. However, you must get all three. We did not have one weak link throughout the meal, so obviously I am suggesting to copy my order with you and your seven girlfriends!

Sunda's crispy rice with tuna and jalapeno, comparable to the famed Katsuya's, could have easily been my favorite first bite on our entire Chicago vacation. Why isn't all rice served crispy?! The execution was flawless, in my opinion. If only Sunda delivered long-distance.

The sushi at Sunda approached traditional rolls with creative elements such as asparagus in a rainbow roll and unagi in a shrimp tempura roll. The fish tasted as if the sea were in Sunda's backyard -- fine and fresh as ever. The tuna sashimi (below) was brilliantly served with a crab cake crust and hot mustard; I am still attempting to solve how Sunda keeps the tuna raw yet pan fries the crab. Brilliant.

We were (without much persuasion) also swooned into not one, but two desserts. The blueberry seasonal cobbler with vanilla bean ice cream proved an automatic winner, but "The Ridiculous" (yes, that's the title) transformed a ginger carrot cake into glaze form for an amusing ice cream topping. The caramel and nuts took my taste buds back to a traditional butter pecan ice cream favorite.

Feast with your eyes, and then reserve your next feast for Sunda while next in Chicago.

Torn Garlic Bread

Happy September and short work week! I just returned from a euphoric weekend in Chicago, where my closest friends and I dined constantly and downed one too many dirty martinis amidst endless catch-up conversations. Get ready, because Chicago will soon be joining the Critiques page.

I'm yearning for a taste of simplicity to balance my non-stop calendar, and I truly believe this no-stress side does the trick. Crostini is obviously adorable and makes for ideal presentation, but there's something liberating about tearing a fresh baguette into imperfect shapes of garlicky goodness. That's right. I claim that ripping bread relieves stress. Try it yourself.

1 baguette, torn into 2-inch pieces 3 cloves garlic 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened Salt, to taste Red pepper flakes, to taste 1 tablespoon minced flat-leaf parsley

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a food processor, puree garlic. Add butter and pulse until smooth.

2. Transfer butter to a large bowl and add baguette. Coat pieces with butter and then pour onto a baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, shaking pan halfway through cook time, until crust is golden brown and crispy.

3. Remove from oven and transfer bread to a serving piece. Sprinkle with salt, red pepper and parsley. Serve warm.