A Caramelized Conversation with Eugenia Bone

I’m sitting down with nationally-acclaimed cookbook author Eugenia Bone, who just released her fourth book, The Kitchen Ecosystem. Eugenia is resourceful and innovative, intuitive and noteworthy. Her work has circulated in dozens of publications, including Saveur and Food & Wine Magazines. We are lucky to have her in Memphis next weekend, where she will be signing books, cooking at the Memphis Farmers Market, and preparing a tasting at The Elegant Farmer! Read below to discover her cooking philosophy and why she chooses to continuously visit our city… 

This post can also be found on Choose901.com.

What inspired your most recent cookbook? We love the concept!

I am so glad you do! The concept is really an articulation of an observation. This is the way people used to cook, and the way people who cook a lot, cook now. But here’s what got me thinking about this notion of a kitchen as an ecosystem: Years ago, some friends put together a little party where everyone made dishes from my first cookbook, At Mesa’s Edge. They followed the simple recipes exactly, and everyone enjoyed them very much. However, I was disappointed. I found the dishes weren’t as intense as mine. The flavor wasn’t as punchy. A little investigation and a few phone calls later, and I realized most everyone had used store-bought chicken broth, where I had used homemade. Or store-bought mayonnaise where I had used homemade. That’s when I started to think, hmm, all the components of a dish are like individual species, and the healthier those species are (and in food terms that would mean fresh, regional, and homemade), the healthier the ecosystem. 

What are your five favorite farmers market ingredients for this time of year?

I love the fall foods: brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, beans, potatoes…oh, that’s more than five. Why five? Why not fifteen? How about cranberries, apples, pears, walnuts, broccoli rabe, baby ginger, wine grapes, fennel, and the mushrooms! Hen of Woods are under the Oak trees now.

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Every home cook needs…

Fresh water. Which is why every home cook should be out there fighting to protect her local water resources.

How did you begin writing about food, in particular? 

Before I started writing about food I was writing about whatever I could get an assignment for: celebrities, movies, metro, humor…I was an omnivore career-wise. But food was something that I knew a lot about, having grown up in a food family (my dad is Edward Giobbi, who wrote cookbooks and hung out with a lot of terrific chefs) and one of those people who would brave the mankiest little joint in Chinatown if it meant I might get to taste a really rocking jelly fish appetizer. That, and I cooked at home constantly (on a hot plate) and shopped in all the boroughs (on a ridiculously low budget). I began writing about food when I caught a look at an early copy of Saveur Magazine at my butcher’s and realized someone out there thought about food the way I did. I started writing for them and never looked back.

What are you most looking forward to in Memphis?

I love eating in Memphis. The food is fabulous. My mother is from Memphis (Elinor Turner is her name) and I spent a lot of my childhood sitting in my grandmother's kitchen learning how to make corn pones, butter beans, turnip greens, and a proper leg of lamb. I used to go to The Little Tea Shop with my grandfather, who’s office was nearby, and my grandmother used to take me to the polo club to eat peppermint ice cream. But lately when I’ve come to visit, I’ve been floored by the new cooking that is going on here. So I am looking forward to the restaurants, especially Mac’s Elegant Farmer. We are doing some cooking together next Sunday night, November 23.

Here in Memphis, food is a big part of life, and what we eat is such an indication of our culture. What do you think food says about people and, more broadly, cities and their cultures?

Food reflects so many things: the nature of the local economy (Is it regional? Is it global?), the traditions of the people (the holidays foods, and food prohibitions), the values of the society (insular and family oriented, or all about guests?). You can break down a cuisine into these component parts and explain a place. The food in the city of Memphis is the city of Memphis in food.

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How do you add sweet touches to everyday experiences (the mantra of Caramelized food blog)?

It always changes. Lately I have been serving up a little plate of sliced feta cheese and dressing it with good olive oil and freshly ground black pepper. The cheese is wonderful as a garnish on stewed meat, vegetables, salads, and pastas. It is a simple, quick, and totally charming addition to a dish (and feta is made from sheep’s milk, which lots of people can manage). All last summer I was making beet granita (recipe in The Kitchen Ecosystem) and serving it before a meal, in the middle of a meal, and after a meal. It was refreshing, always. Come winter, I don’t know. Probably something with nuts. Stay tuned!

Meet Eugenia next weekend at the following events: 

  • Book signing at Booksellers at Laurelwood, November 20, 6:30 p.m.
  • Book signing and cooking demo at Memphis Farmers Market, November 22, 9:30 a.m.
  • Tasting (with wine and a signed copy) at The Elegant Farmer, November 23, Time TBD ($45/ticket). Call the restaurant to reserve your seat at 901-324-2221.

photo courtesy of huffington post

Second Bar and Kitchen (Austin)

If you have seen yesterday's Facebook post, you most likely laughed at the length of restaurants I intentionally squeezed into my epic three-day visit to Austin, Texas. It was absolutely wonderful from start (at Clark's) to finish (at Juiceland) with seventeen of my best friends. The coffees, afternoon snacks, and dirty martinis were not taken for granted, either. I don't know how I managed to consume that many calories (Was the Easy Tiger pretzel really necessary? Yes.), but I'm still standing. So let's continue. 10372765_10203348004560131_5603877245741812188_n

For our first dinner, thirteen of us took a piece of the vast Second Street heated outdoor patio at a favorite, Second Bar and Kitchen. The long table provided enough room to pass and share plates among the group. So that's just what we did!

Unfortunately, we dug into the appetizers too quickly to photograph, but the variety was perfect for our party size. The baked brie with sweet currant-apricot mostado and spicy basil was crowd pleaser -- melted cheese spread onto a toasted crostini like butter. The garlic gnocchi with winter squash was excellent and super seasonal, considering its light and simple disposition. Pumpkin seed-flecked ricotta salad added a slightly rich component. If only the gnocchi was a large plate instead of a small one! We also enjoyed the avocado fundido (think guac and queso combined), bite-sized veal meatballs, and a margarita pizza.

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For my entrée, I about died over my vegetarian mushroom carbonara. The combination was smoked and raw mushrooms was fascinating, and the housemade linguine melted amongst the grana padano cheese and crispy arugula. The above photograph shows only half of the portion (since I split with Risa), so be aware of the mighty large portions. I could've eaten two, this was so unbelievable!

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The flank steak with chimchurri had a colorful presentation with fresh chiles and cilantro. Others enjoyed the infamous pizzas and raw kale and carrot salad with jumbo grilled shrimp. We were impressed with the efficient service and attention to detail, even for a large group. And while I had already experienced Second Bar and Kitchen twice -- once for an afternoon cheese plate and once for a Sunday night dinner -- I loved the weekend patio vibe. I can't wait to revisit!

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Downtown Memphis Dining Week on StyleBlueprint

Memphians: Mark your calendars for Downtown Dining Week from November 16-22! "While I have always been inspired by Memphis’ dining scene, new restaurants are popping up left and right, and old establishments are re-marking their culinary territory among loyal and interested guests. Our restaurants are booming in both quality and publicity, as the nation is starting to realize that our city’s culinary creativity goes well beyond barbecue spaghetti and ribs. So make your reservations and let the 40 participating chefs carry you through extra exclusive meals. Almost all of the menus are available on Downtown Dining Week’s website, but here are a few that grabbed our attention for their creative twists and fancied deals. . ."

Read more on the StyleBlueprint website, where I will be guest-writing monthly!

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Kale Salad with Pine Nuts and Parmesan

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Has this week been declared salad week? Well, I'm declaring it. I am not boasting that my diet has consisted of substantial salads (although that's a fine idea), but Monday's green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon kickstarted some salad inspiration. The leaves may be changing from greens to oranges, but why not celebrate the green in your season through a bowl of tasty and healthy ingredients? A kale salad with parmesan and pine nuts was delivered to my parents' home in a box of homemade goods, from monkey bread to tomato soup and parmesan toasts. I swooned over the packaging -- all in individual mason jars. I insisted that Cathy send me the salad recipe, which surprisingly only requires 5 ingredients. Cathy's one mandate? Don't buy the pre-bagged kale. Find the fresh heads of kale at Whole Foods or Fresh Market, and remove the veins in order to prevent notorious bitterness. While it may take longer to wash, dry, and chop, the kale will have just the right amount of spice without overwhelming your palette. Thanks, Cathy!

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Makes 4-6 servings

1 head of kale, washed, dried, chopped 1 lemon, juiced 1/2 cup olive oil Salt and pepper 1 cup parmesan 1 cup pine nuts

1. Mix lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper for dressing. Pour over kale and toss.

2. Add parmesan and pine nuts.

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Green Bean Salad with Mustard Seeds and Tarragon

IMG_0762 Are your eyes also stuck on the the brightness and beauty of this salad? I didn't even enhance the color while editing my photography. . .This is authentic cooking, and I think you are going to love this salad to serve during any season.

You must get this cookbook, first of all. The pages are absolutely beautiful and literally urge you to get off the couch, find a farmers market, and attempt to mimic the colorful, visionary vegetarian recipes.

For a dinner party last week, I adapted this green bean salad as a starter to roasted halibut with homemade chickpea puree (also known as hummus) and red potatoes. We all loved the lemony crunch and appreciated the slightly licorice taste of the tarragon. The mustard seeds, which I had never before owned in my spice cabinet, were a warm touch. Above all else, though, this gorgeous dish will turn any dinner plate into a masterpiece. I assure you. Blanch away, and Happy Monday.

adapted from Plenty

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Makes 6-8 servings

1 1/2 cups green beans, trimmed 1 1/2 cup snap peas, trimmed 1 cup snow peas, trimmed 1 cup green peas, fresh or frozen 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 red onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, minced Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon Coarse sea salt 1 cup arugula & spinach mix

1. Bring water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Blanch green beans for 4 minutes, then immediately drain into iced water. Drain and dry. repeat Repeat for snap peas (Blanch 1 minute), snow peas (Blanch 1 minute), and peas (Blanch 20 seconds).

2. Combine all beans and peas into a large mixing bowl. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat oil, mustard seeds and garlic. When seeds begin to pop, pour contents of the plan over the beans and peas.

3. Toss mixing bowl, then add red onion, lemon zest, and tarragon. Mix well and season with salt to taste.

4. Just before serving, fold spinach and arugula leaves in the beans and peas. Serve at room temperature.

Friday Finds: Halloween Sips and Sweets

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Happy Halloween! While I will not be trick or treating for candy tonight, my sweet tooth is unsurprisingly at an all-time high. Luckily, this holiday hands us the excuse to add a punch of sweetness to our diet, whether in dessert or cocktail form. Tonight, in my 1920s garb, I'll be whipping up this folklore blackberry brew from last week's All Hallows Eve dinner party shoot with West Elm and Art in the Find. Below are a few other sweet-tooth-friendly finds for your holiday weekend...It is not too late to plan something special for your Halloween gathering!

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Halloween-appropriate puppy chow (pictured above).

Mini pumpkin whoopie pies with cream cheese filling by the beloved Martha.

Joy's apple snap cocktails. . .hello.

A "fig"ment of your imagination with honeyed mascarpone.

A classic martini with the most crisp and creepy presentation!

 

Featured image courtesy of Edible Perspective